The second to last time I saw
Warren Cabral, he was knee deep in the Caribbean, a ten
year-old tow-headed urchin with oversized Bob Marley
teeshirt, soggy nylon shorts, and the exaggerated stillness
of a snake charmer. He had broken open a baby conch and,
moving only his right arm, was handlining for fingerlings
with bits of its flesh. As he caught these, he thumbnailed
their heads against his forefinger, then underhanded the
stilled bodies toward the reason for the whole production:
Peli the pelican.
The bird watched from six feet away, pounced greedily upon
each offering, eased back to watch again. When Warren
walked along the shoreline to another likely fishing spot,
the bird hesitated, then swam alongside like a dog at heel.
Watching from shore, I asked, just above a whisper, how he
had decided to tame such a creature.
He whispered back: Peli came one evening to the dock where
his father cleans the nightly catch. The bird was so
aggressive the small nurse sharks that normally show up
couldn’t win any of the scraps. Warren liked that.
Watching, it seemed to me there was more: these two, the
blue-eyed boy and the pouch-faced bird, share an overriding
commonality. They both live to fish.
Like the pelican, Warren comes by his fishing obsession
naturally. He is growing up on a nine acre private island
off mainland Belize. In his universe, land is the anomaly
and limitless, fish-filled ocean the rule. His father is
Belizean, the son and grandson of subsistence fishermen.
His mother, child of French and American expatriates, was
also raised here.
This is a boy who caught fish before he could walk. Caught
his first bonefish, a creature Rocky Mountain flyfishermen
cherish technicolor dreams of, by age 5. Has been
spearfishing since kindergarten. When he was 8 he caught
the fish of which he’s still most proud, an 80 pound
grouper longer than he was tall. His father says the boy
could easily feed the family, but Breeze Cabral does not
mean to say the boy is special, only that all is as it
should be: Breeze was younger than Warren when he began
putting food on the family table.
The Cabrals support themselves not by subsistence fishing
but by taking in guests, which is how I came to be here.
Rocky Mountain flyfisherman that I am, I suppose I came, at
least in part, for the bonefish.
Which, it turns out, are Warren’s favorite prey. He likes
the zzzhhh sound his reel makes when the fish runs. He
likes that they’re “spooky,” a word he says with an island
accent that makes watery ripples out of those o’s.
What “spooky” means, I’ve read, is that casts must be
accurate and clean, the fly landing gently, not too close
but not too far from feeding fish. The fly must sink before
the bonefish arrive, and the retrieve must not ask these
wary bottom feeders to detour significantly.
“Spooky” also means that, once hooked, a bonefish can
easily break off, either through sheer speed or by abrading
the line as it dodges among coral heads.
Bonefishing with Warren can be a humbling experience,
especially if you haven’t done much ocean fishing. First
off, if you don’t know him yet, it’s easy to mistake his
fish tales for unabashed fictions. But it’s a sunny morning
on a tiny tropical island and he’s a nice kid, so you (or
in actual fact, my friend and fishing buddy, Dean) grab
your gear and meet Warren at the dock. He’s not allowed to
go alone; you (Dean) figure you’re helping him out.
He’s also not allowed to take a motor rig, so one of the
family’s sea kayaks, powered mostly by you once Warren gets
talking, carries the two of you to a nearby island called
Long Caye. The island’s southern tip is a sand flat 2 to 5
feet deep, surrounded by sea grass. Bonefish heaven.
Almost immediately on arriving, the boy points
dramatically.
“There they are,” he says.
You see light dancing on water, and beneath that, several
vague darknesses, any of which might be a cluster of fish.
“See them? They’re feeding.”
And while your eyes dart uncertainly from darkness to
darkness, he adds, “And there’s a barracuda in the middle.
They will be careful with him there.”
Which is when you decide you don’t believe him. Your
decision is strengthened when Warren asks you to tie on his
fly, a thing like an Egg-sucking Leach, fat-headed and
streamy, that the boy calls a Mini Puff. What kind of
fisherman can’t tie on his own fly?
Then Warren strides into the water, saying “Look, I’ll show
you,” and hacks off a couple of rough-looking casts that
land his fly this side of a shadow cluster you already
scanned and dismissed. Strip, strip, strip. On the third
cast, he hooks up.
You smile and shake your head -- you’re the one wearing
polarized sunglasses -- and wade out to cheer the fight.
Catch. Release. And he’s casting again. You start casting
too but of the corner of your eye, you also watch. The
boy’s rod is a 9 foot, 8 weight St. Croix. Lacking wrist
strength, he chokes up on the handle, wedging the butt in
the crook of his elbow and casting with his whole arm. For
long casts, he steps out on his left leg like a baseball
pitcher. But his flies land lightly, and he patiently waits
for them to sink. His strips are smooth and slow. His rod
tip points, unwavering, at the quarry.
He catches two more and so, finally, do you, by aiming
where Warren points and never by seeing the fish yourself.
All are about 12 inches long, slim and moon-silver, as full
of fight as a 20 inch native cutt. You and the boy howl in
delight at each take and rod-bending run.
Then, announcing it’s time to rest the bonefish, Warren
wades to shore and stalks the waterline. Stops, casts, and
immediately catches a needlefish about ten inches long.
It’s pencil-thin, like a finned snake.
He skewers the wriggling creature on a large fly he has
again asked you to tie on and proceeds to locate, stalk
and, in minutes, catch a 24 inch, snag-toothed barracuda.
The area is a marine reserve. Only catch-and-release
fishing is allowed unless you are an island resident
fishing for the table. Warren kills the ‘cuda.
Most of this time, you’ve been trying to catch one last
bonefish, but like a batter who’s lost his lucky rabbit’s
foot, without Warren you strike out. So you wade ashore to
try for needlefish, but although you can tease them up,
hooking them seems a different matter. Warren has no such
difficulty: he catches another needlefish, then another
barracuda, this one 14 or so inches long. He looks at it
dismissively, releases it.
An hour later as you paddle back, you pass the sandy mound
that comprises tiny Lomont Caye, named after Warren’s
mother’s family because once they lived there.
“Look at that big barracuda,” Warren says.
You look down, see something below the boat. Four feet
long, motionless, black against the bright-white sand. To
your eye it could be as easily be a shark or a flyrod case.
But if Warren says it’s a barracuda, it’s a barracuda.
“If I had my spinning rod, trust me, he’d have a
toothache.”
You don’t question that, either.
But it’s not Warren’s fishing skill that finally and
utterly charms. It’s the fact that this is, bottom line, a
ten-year-old child. While I was visiting the island, he
stole two strings from his 7 year-old sister’s toy guitar.
They were steel and he envisioned them as fishing leaders
that might keep barracuda from making off with his flies.
A while back he got himself in big trouble by spending an
entire week marching from guest cabin to guest cabin at
mealtimes, claiming, alongside his sister, that their
mother didn’t feed them and could the guests spare some
scraps?
And when Becky, his mom, fetches him home from some
adventure or another, like as not he’ll unselfconsciously
take her hand as they walk and begin chattering the day’s
stories at her.
The last time I saw Warren Cabral, he looked almost as
hang-faced as his friend the pelican. He was being yelled
at by his mother for not attending to chores. Drinking
water needed fetched from the cistern, wash water from the
well. I sympathized with them both, the impatient mother
and the dismayed boy, because I imagined I knew the reason
for his absent-mindedness: behind those ocean-blue eyes, no
matter where he was or what he did, the boy had been, as
always, fishing.
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